For those of us remaining, let’s geek out and make something beautiful, which is what this beer deserves.
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First, Fathom has made a
hypocrite of me—I am not a fan of Two Brothers beer. Never have
been. But this beer is fantastic. We have the Brothers’ acquisition
of French oak foudres (which brought us recent local favorites such
as Resistance IPA and Long Haul) and the new
Project Opus series to thank.
I have been drinking Fathom from the
tap for about a week now, and have actually experienced craving for
it—not the typical, “I-could-go-for-a-beer” that always hits me
about 6pm, but full on “I-wonder-what-Fathom-is-doing-right-now”
late-morning fantasies. Here’s why:
It pours easily, with a light head and
moderate carbonation. The aroma is very light and subtle, but you
definitely smell the oak, which gives it a nice California Chardonnay
impression. It’s a fresh, leisurely scent, with just a touch of
alcohol to it, so you can breathe deep and snuff it a little to
maximize your pleasure. . . Close your eyes and pretend you are
sitting at the edge of a wooded area, in Sonoma’s dry heat. The
taste starts winey, with a bit of over-ripe grape sweetness that is
quickly overcome by a perfectly balanced brett/lacto tartness and
oak—lots of oak that somehow remains light while dominating the
palate. As the grape fades, it’s replaced by an apple-berry
cider-ness that tastes wild to me—not the thornless, flavorless
blackberries you get at the grocery or Farmer’s Market, but the
kind you have to hit a fence row for, and get a little scratched up.
Overall, the flavor is complex, refreshing, and carries a nice funk
that keeps it interesting glass after glass. This beer will be gone
before your taste buds tire of it, so find some patio seating and get
to drinkin’.
Reviewed by Charitianne
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Postscript
Since reviewing Fathom from draft, I've had a chance to drink some from the bottle--also delicious. The bottle label contains this little gem, "Aged sour can be enjoyed now or cellared 5-10 years," a lovely reminder missing from other Two Brothers sours, Tangent and Askew. Well, Askew did actually say that the beer could be aged, but without the bravado of the Fathom label: the Brothers are serious about aging their latest Opus. (I have accordingly set back a few bottles). If you never had the chance, Askew was a delicious sour--I am out. I opened a bottle of Tangent, aged 1.5 years, just tonight. Skip it. Aging hasn't improved what was an average beer to begin with.
Postscript
Since reviewing Fathom from draft, I've had a chance to drink some from the bottle--also delicious. The bottle label contains this little gem, "Aged sour can be enjoyed now or cellared 5-10 years," a lovely reminder missing from other Two Brothers sours, Tangent and Askew. Well, Askew did actually say that the beer could be aged, but without the bravado of the Fathom label: the Brothers are serious about aging their latest Opus. (I have accordingly set back a few bottles). If you never had the chance, Askew was a delicious sour--I am out. I opened a bottle of Tangent, aged 1.5 years, just tonight. Skip it. Aging hasn't improved what was an average beer to begin with.
